Into the Temple
In my relatively short surfing life Thursday morning’s sunrise offered new levels of depth.
There were no horizon clouds so as I paddled out, that immense ball of fire silently exhaled straight out of the sea.
Just a few blokes were out the back on their boards – in full black steamers silhouetted against the sky. And as I paddled into the lineup there was silence and stillness…everyone was transfixed by the rising sun.
It felt like paddling into a temple of monks and it brought me a little undone actually, to experience such a shared moment of sacredness in this most secular of societies.
When I caught my first beautiful wave the sun was at my back and the newly-waning moon still shone almost overhead. It was a tender moment of open-heart and open-mind and as my wave sighed to a close, I could only bow in thanks for something so much bigger than me.
“Wherever you are is the entry point” Kabir